The Big Question? Russian Volume......Hand made Or Premades??

Hand Made Volume OR Premade Fans???? This is the burning question. This is a very hot topic in the industry at the moment.

As a Trainer and Master Lash Artist I was initially very much against Premades being used or sold.  Well I have had to eat my words. There is a place for them we just need to understand them, when they can be used and what are the optimal ones for the client's Natural Lashes because as always it is always about responsible sustainable lashing.

So straight up, nothing can or will replace the benefits of actual hand made Russian Volume. Hand Made Volume you can wrap the base which will always give longer lasting. Also we as the artist can tailor a fan totally for the actual lash we are applying to, whether that's the number of lashes in the fan, length, diameter or curl creating a look or style. Russian Volume when done correctly as in wrapping the bases will always take 2,3 or more hours of application. This time does depend on the number of natural lashes the client has and the mapping and styling you choose to do.

Premades lets talk benefits, as a lash tech you don't need to be trained in Volume. If you are classic trained you can apply Premades.  It is also a much quicker application than hand made as some clients just don't have 3+ hours available to them for an Appointment. Generally you can charge less than true Volume as it is a quicker application.

On the down side, your product cost is greater than hand made. On average you will use approx 2 trays of lashes in full for a full set application so we do need to ensure we are charging enough for them. More than Classic but less than Hand Made. Always let your client know that you are applying premades as some can be a bit funny about it if you don't tell them. As a technician we do need to understand the fan weights. I am seeing so many applying 0.10s in Premades (shock Horror). Let me ask you? "Would you ever apply a 0.40 or a 0.50 to a clients natural lash for a classic application?? (PS. I do know there is no such thing lol) There are irresponsible lash suppliers out there selling Premades in these sizes & they are soooo bad for our clients lashes. That is the one down side to not being Volume trained and understanding the importance of the number of lashes in a fan. Also knowing and understanding the glue quantity required for the attachment as this is hugely different to a classic application. 

So what is appropriate do you ask? Most Premades made in 0.07 or 0.05s are appropriate to apply to the natural lashes. In 0.07s up to 4D is most suitable for natural lashes or occasionally 5D for really strong natural Lashes. In 0.05 up to 6D-7D is also suitable for most. Beyond these numbers you will cause long term damage to your clients lashes. Also please make sure you purchase heat bonded premades. These are the go to in the industry. If the bases are glued premades once you add glue to the base it will end up being really thick & clunky on the lashes giving you a very messy heavy base line.

So I do hope this helps to answer the good the bad & the ugly about Premades.

If you would like further information or have questions please give me a call, email or message. We at Exotique are happy to help you at any time with any technique or product questions.

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